Dining & Wine

Thanksgiving Help Line

Have a Thanksgiving quandary? The staff of The New York Times Dining section and other experts answered your questions on food, drinks, entertaining and more.
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Turkey

Can you suggest a good Tofurky recipe?

Please don't say: "Throw out the Tofurky. Eat the sides." It's nice to have something at the center of the table. Plus, it's so much fun to say “Tofurky.” If we could just get people to eat it.

November 22, 2012

I passed this question to Kathy Freston, the author of several best-selling books on health and wellness:

I would never say, "Throw out the Tofurky." I'm a huge believer in enjoying traditions. And eating a Thanksgiving meal that feels like the one we grew up loving (sans the actual bird) seems like a good idea to me. I love meat alternatives, so I would recommend treating your Tofurky (or Gardein turkey or Field Roast Celebration Loaf) exactly as you would turkey breast from an animal. Slice it up and put it on a platter for everyone to dig into, and then pile on the stuffing, cranberry sauce, brussels sprouts, et al.

Read More

Here's my favorite stuffing, made by my cousin Kelsey Law from Nashville; it's a veganized version of her grandmother's. Enjoy your (slightly tweaked) tradition.

Vegan Corn-Bread Dressing
Adapted from Betty Tanner

For the corn bread:
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 cups self-rising cornmeal
1 1/2 cups soy milk (to replace buttermilk)
1 egg substitute (I use Ener-G egg replacement)
1 cup chopped celery
1 large onion, chopped

For the dressing:
1/2 package herbed stuffing mix (which is already vegan)
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon sage (or to taste)
1 egg substitute (I use Ener-G egg replacement)
2 to 3 cans vegetable broth

To make the corn bread:
Add 1/4 cup oil to cast iron skillet (I use a 10 1/4-inch seasoned skillet). Place in the oven, and heat oven to 425 degrees. While oven is heating, combine cornmeal, soy milk, egg replacement, celery and onion. Mix thoroughly. Once oven is heated, remove skillet from oven and pour hot oil into the corn-bread mixture. Mix well and pour into the hot skillet. Place back in the oven, and bake until golden brown. Turn out of pan to cool (about 25 minutes).

To assemble the dressing:
Crumble the corn bread and combine it with the herbed stuffing mix, salt, pepper, sage, egg substitute and vegetable broth. Mixture should be very moist and the consistency of thick batter. Pour into a well-greased 9-by-13-inch pan, and bake at 350 degrees for 55 to 60 minutes, or until set.

Health

Know any good recipes for gluten-free stuffing?

November 21, 2012

Gluten is a protein found in wheat, rye and barley, and it can also be found in spices and many processed foods, making it a challenge to cook without it.

To answer your question, I went to the food writer Silvana Nardone, whose son Isaiah was diagnosed with gluten intolerance three weeks before Thanksgiving. Ms. Nardone was the owner of a bakery and founding editor of the food magazine Every Day With Rachel Ray, so she took on the challenge of gluten-free cooking. She wrote the cookbook “Cooking for Isaiah: Gluten-Free & Dairy-Free Recipes for Easy Delicious Meals.,’’ and offers new gluten-free recipes on her Web site, Silvana’s Kitchen.

Last year, Ms. Nardone created a gluten-free Thanksgiving menu for Well’s Vegetarian Thanksgiving series that included a gluten-free apple-pecan cornbread stuffing. She has also sent us four new recipes made with gluten-free bread. This one uses gluten-free bread crumbs to create a traditional stuffing flavored with sage, onion and celery seed. Mushroom-rye stuffing is made with gluten-free rye bread. Sausage, dried cranberry and walnut stuffing will please the meat-eaters at your table.Read More

Ms. Nardone also has a new stuffing-like recipe made with gluten-free crackers. If you want the texture of a more traditional stuffing, just double the recipe and bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish until golden brown, about 45 minutes. You could also use gluten-free bread (toasted bread cubes or crumbled bread cubes, coarse breadcrumbs or toasted coarsely crumbled gluten-free cornbread) in equal weight to the gluten-free crackers listed in the recipe.

Before you settle on a recipe, consider this advice from Martha Rose Shulman, the editor of The Times's Recipes for Health series, who created five recipes for gluten-free stuffing last year. Ms. Shulman notes that what makes stuffing taste like stuffing is not the bread. Sage, thyme, onions and celery are what give stuffing its signature flavor and consistency. So instead of shopping for gluten-free bread to make your stuffing, she suggests substituting gluten-free grains like quinoa and wild rice. This will give you all the flavors you love in a traditional stuffing without the gluten.

Desserts

Is there a good nondairy substitute for butter and sour cream?

I just found out I am attending a kosher Thanksgiving dinner and I was hoping to bake Melissa Clark's apple bundt cake recipe.

November 20, 2012

Apple Bourbon Bundt Cake.Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Apple Bourbon Bundt Cake.

To answer your question, I called on my favorite vegan chef/baker, Chloe Coscarelli, whose trademark vegan cupcakes won the Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars.” Ms. Coscarelli said that substituting dairy products in baked goods is easy to do.

She took at look at the bundt cake recipe you want to make and had some simple suggestions. If all you are trying to do is to eliminate the dairy to make it kosher, not vegan, she suggested substituting either vegan margarine for the butter or 1/2 cup canola oil.

For the sour cream, she suggested substituting 3/4 cup canned coconut milk, well mixed before measuring. Even though the recipe already calls for a half lemon, she suggested adding another tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar for the sour effect.

If you want to go a step further and make this recipe vegan, Ms. Coscarelli said you can eliminate the eggs entirely and add a full cup of well-mixed coconut milk and 2 tablespoons of vinegar. The vinegar and the baking soda and powder already in the recipe will bind, and the cake will still rise without the eggs, she said. "I haven't tried this recipe, but that's the general thought process when I'm trying to veganize something,'' she said.Read More

She also offered a few general rules for making dairy substitutes in a recipe.

If your recipe calls for milk, you can substitute soy, almond or rice milk in the same amount. Instead of butter, Ms. Coscarelli said, she would substitute 1/2 cup of canola oil for 2 sticks of butter, or Earth Balance buttery spread or a vegan margarine when she makes certain baked goods, mashed potatoes or yams. (Well just published her Quick Buttery Biscuit recipe.)

If a recipe calls for 1 cup of sour cream but has other liquids (including eggs), you can substitute 1 cup of coconut milk with a splash of vinegar as long as you reduce the other liquids by about 1/4 cup, so your batter doesn't become runny. If you worry that that would diminish other flavors, then use only 3/4 cup of coconut milk instead, as she did in the bundt cake recipe. “This works great in banana bread and other baked goods calling for sour cream,’’ she said. There are also some nondairy sour creams that you can buy at food stores. About.com offers a good summary of the products available.

If your recipe calls for buttermilk, use a combination of nondairy milk mixed with vinegar or lemon juice (1 cup of nondairy milk to 1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice).

If you want to make a favorite baked-goods recipe fully vegan, you also need to get rid of the eggs. This is a little trickier, since eggs act as binders in a recipe and also influence how the rising. You can follow Ms. Coscarelli's advice above or read more about it in this article on egg substitutes for baking.

Sometimes it’s just easier to start with a vegan dessert recipe rather than trying to convert a recipe made with dairy and eggs. My all-time favorite vegan Thanksgiving dessert is Ms. Coscarelli’s vegan Chocolate Pumpkin Bread Pudding. None of your guests would ever guess it's vegan. This is an incredibly easy recipe, made with bread, canned organic pumpkin, coconut milk and chocolate pieces. Did I mention it’s delicious? Ms. Coscarelli uses very cute ramekins to make a nice little portion, but I make it in a big casserole dish. She said the recipe serves 14, but at our house it’s more like 4.

For more vegan dessert ideas from Ms. Coscarelli (pumpkin tiramisu, spiced crème brûlée, chocolate layer cake and more), go to her Web site, or take a look at her book, "Chloe's Kitchen."

In the Well Vegetarian Thanksgiving feature, you’ll also find three recipes for vegan pies, as well as a vegan pie crust, from the book "Vegan Pie in the Sky" by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero.

November 20, 2012

A kosher Thanksgiving dinner is not that different from a nonkosher one except that there cannot be any dairy products in the dishes, and no shellfish either.

First, a reminder: do not brine a kosher turkey. The turkey is already salted in the koshering process.

In place of butter, especially for basting the turkey, consider chicken fat. You might even try to render any fat that you find clinging to the cavity of the turkey. It would be much better than margarine, an ingredient commonly found in kosher cooking. Chicken fat, along with vegetable or chicken stock, would work well in the mashed potatoes, too. And it could be useful for preparing the stuffing.Read More

As for vegetables, you could make a soup to start, using a vegetable purée (pumpkin or cauliflower) thinned with stock. A casserole of various root vegetables rubbed with olive oil, salt and pepper, then roasted for 30 to 40 minutes, makes for an easy, terrific side dish. Scatter herbs like fresh thyme and parsley on it before serving. Many markets now sell small sweet potatoes, about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long, which can be baked whole and simply served that way. Or you could bake them in advance, halve them lengthwise, top them with baby kosher marshmallows (pareve) or homemade meringue, which is lightly sweetened, and briefly reheat them in a hot oven until the marshmallows or meringue have browned.

As for dessert, you can bake an apple-cranberry crumble using oil instead of butter for the streusel topping. Serve it with cranberry sorbet.

November 20, 2012

Evan Sung for The New York Times

The commonly cited statistic is that the average American will consume more than 4,500 calories on Thanksgiving Day alone. That’s according to the Calorie Control Council, which represents the people who bring you diet foods. After thinking about how much 4,500 calories really is, I was skeptical of the claim. I decided to create a gluttonous Thanksgiving feast of traditional foods and count the calories along the way (with the help of several online calorie counters). Here’s what I found.

Let’s start piling our plate with a generous 6-ounce serving of turkey, with the skin of course. Since dark meat has more calories, we’ll go with 4 ounces of dark meat (206 calories) and 2 ounces of white meat (93 calories). Did I mention we’re eating the crispy skin? Don’t forget the stuffing. I picked a not-so-healthy sausage stuffing (310 calories). Since it’s a holiday, let’s throw caution to the wind and eat lots of starchy, buttery foods. A dinner roll with butter (310 calories) plus two kinds of potatoes – a big serving of mashed sweet-potato casserole made with butter, brown sugar and topped with marshmallows (divide your casserole dish into 8 servings and it will be 300 calories each) plus a half-cup of mashed potatoes with butter and gravy (140 calories).

You’re not getting full are you? Let’s add 2/3 cup green bean casserole (110 calories), a dollop of cranberry sauce (about 15 calories), and roasted brussels sprouts because our mother made us eat them (83 calories). And since we don’t want to hurt anybody's feelings, we’ll take one slice each of pumpkin pie (316 calories) and pecan pie (503 calories) with generous dollops of homemade whipped cream on each slice (100 calories).Read More

O.K., now I feel sick. How much have I eaten? The grand total is: 2,486 calories.

The point is I had to work pretty hard to finding enough servings of fat-laden, sugary foods to get to about 2,500 calories. Throw in a few glasses of wine, breakfast and some snacks and it’s certainly possible to binge your way to 4,500 calories on Thanksgiving Day, but I’m not convinced it’s as common as the diet food companies would like us to believe.

For one thing most people would have a hard time eating that much. After about 1,500 calories in one sitting, the gut releases a hormone that causes nausea. Average stomach capacity is about 8 cups, although it can range from 4 to 12.

The average meal takes 1 to 3 hours to leave the stomach. But a large meal can take 8 to 12 hours, depending on the quantity and fat content. Eating too much can lead to indigestion (painful) and flatulence (you probably won’t be invited back). Another reason to pace yourself and avoid a gluttonous binge is that big meals can raise the risk for heart attack, blood clots and gallbladder problems and make you a dangerous, drowsy driver on the way home. Bon Appetit!

November 23, 2011

Dr. Harry Haroutunian, physician director of the Betty Ford Center in Rancho Mirage, Calif., says that alcohol flavors in food are indeed potential triggers for a person in recovery. He said many people wrongly believe that it's okay to cook with alcohol because most of the liquid will have evaporated by the time a dish reaches the table.

“Alcohol's boiling point is lower than that of water, and many cooks assume that little or none of its potency remains after cooking,’’ said Dr. Haroutunian. “That is simply not true and quite dangerous thinking for anyone in recovery."

He says cooked food can retain from 5 to 85 percent of the original alcohol, depending on how the dish was prepared and how much alcohol was used. Fast cooking methods, like flambéing, leave about 75 percent of the alcohol behind, he said. A dish that has been baked or simmered for 15 minutes contains about 40 percent of the original alcohol. After two hours of cooking, roughly 10 percent of the alcohol remains.

Non-alcoholic substitutes can be used, but the flavor is likely to be different. For savory recipes Dr. Haroutunian advises using 7/8 cup of broth or juice (apple, tomato or white grape) and 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice or vinegar (to mimic the acidity) for each cup of wine called for in the recipe. In desserts, he suggests replacing the wine with fruit juice plus a dash of balsamic vinegar. If a recipe calls for orange liqueur, try frozen orange juice concentrate and the grated zest of fresh orange instead, he advises.

If the substitutes don’t sound tasty to you, just switch to a new recipe. And don’t be tempted to use a splash of wine anyway. “A bottle of wine in the kitchen — its feel, smell, taste — are absolutely needless temptations and very risky behaviors for the alcoholic in recovery,’’ said Dr. Haroutunian. “Your family, friends and you will enjoy the holidays much more knowing that you cherish your recovery enough to avoid these dangers."

Here's an alcohol-free oyster, bread and spinach stuffing recipe from The Times.

November 15, 2012

For a vegan gravy (one made without milk or animal products), try "Golden Gravy" from the vegan chef Chloe Coscarelli. This gravy gets its golden color from nutritional yeast, a staple of the vegan pantry that will add color and a creamy texture to the gravy. You can find it in large grocery stores and organic food stores. Onions, soy sauce, thyme and garlic powder add flavor.

About.com offers a similar Basic Vegetarian Gravy made with margarine and vegetable stock as well as a Vegetarian Mushroom Gravy recipe.

I found four completely different recipes from home cooks by searching the website Food52.com for “vegetarian gravy,” including one thickened with miso, one made with mushrooms and leeks, another made with dried mushrooms and thyme and another made with herbs and garbanzo flour.

Health

What can diabetics eat at Thanksgiving dinner?

I'm newly diabetic (Type 2). What can I eat and what shouldn't I eat? Will one day matter?

November 16, 2012

With all forms of diabetes, the goal is consistent management of your blood sugar to prevent the long-term damage to nerves, blood vessels and organs that can result from uncontrolled diabetes.


When you have Type 2 diabetes, your body does not make enough insulin or is unable to use it well. Overeating, particularly high carbohydrate foods like many of those served at Thanksgiving, will cause your blood sugar to rise. Even in the short-term, this can cause headaches, fatigue and leave you feeling generally lousy. Thanksgiving is just one day, but you will feel better and enjoy the holiday more if you pay attention to what and how much you eat. This doesn't mean you have to miss out on your favorite foods.

Hopefully, you are working with your doctor or a dietitian and learning about monitoring your blood sugar, counting carbohydrates in foods and staying active. For Thanksgiving, feel free to taste everything, but pay attention to portion size and limit your intake of high-carbohydrate foods. Remember that drinks like alcoholic beverages and eggnog are loaded with sugars, so it's often a good idea to skip these and drink water since the table is likely to be filled with many of your favorite high-carb foods.


Many diabetes educators advise patients to use a plate strategy during holiday time. Fill half of your 9-inch plate with nonstarchy vegetables -- this includes salad, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnips, carrots and others. (You can find list of nonstarchy vegetables here.) Reserve a quarter of your plate for the turkey, but leave off the skin. The remaining quarter of your plate can include dollops of your favorite starchy foods like sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, stuffing, corn or butternut squash, but don't overdo it and skip the marshmallows. Remember, many of these foods at Thanksgiving are prepared with sugar and cream, so traditional carb counts are probably too low. If you plan to have a small slice of pie for dessert, skip the dinner roll. And when you're finished, take a brisk holiday walk. Regular activity is important for maintaining diabetes control.


Finally, if you are taking diabetes medication, it's important that you pay attention to the timing of your meal. Many families eat Thanksgiving dinner at odd hours, so you may need to plan for snacks depending on your medication schedule.


The American Diabetes Association offers lots of advice about holiday eating. Read "Enjoying Thanksgiving," and "Where Do I Begin," to help you adjust your eating and enjoy the day.

Health

What can I do to lighten up my Thanksgiving dinner?

November 16, 2012

There are various ways to approach this question.


If you're talking about the food, it's possible that your crusade is a hopeless one, sort of like striving to snuff out the noise of fireworks on the 4th of July or giving kids homemade agave-nectar granola clusters on Halloween. (If you are in fact the one who happened to make those granola clusters, well, um, cheer up - I'm sure the squirrels really enjoyed them after the kids tossed them in the bushes.)


Like it or not, excess is central to the whole holiday gestalt. Theoretically you could do without giblet gravy and cornbread-andouille stuffing and creamed onions, but that's only going to produce forlorn frowns on the faces of relatives who have spent weeks gearing up for a full-throttle Rabelaisian chow-down. You don't want to be remembered in family folklore as the Grinch Who Ruined Thanksgiving.


The best approach, ironically, is not to subtract items from the spread, but to add more: Make extra room on the table for a couple of dishes that provide a fresh, light counterpoint to the sodden meat-and-starch extravaganza.

Read More

For instance, we can't say enough about this autumn salad that Dining contributor David Tanis recently introduced us to. And this Kris Carr recipe, which involves wine-pickled onions and shaved apples and fennel, sounds like a fine antidote to bloat.


But if, instead, your question has more to do with bringing a breeze of social and mental lightness to the holiday proceedings, we'd like to recommend the "Thin Man" approach. Here's how it works: Moments before your guests arrive, simply start pretending that you're William Powell and/or Myrna Loy in one of those casually witty, dashingly woozy "Thin Man" movies.


Pour yourself a brisk glass of Champagne. Better yet, upgrade to a Kir Royale 38. Here's the recipe for that. Put on some music, ideally something from the American Songbook phase - Fred Astaire and Oscar Peterson collaborated on a few exquisite recordings, and you can't go wrong with Fred Astaire and Oscar Peterson. Just as you can't wrong with Melody Gardot, a jazz chanteuse whom you might think of as an artisanal version of Norah Jones.


Now, close your eyes. Take a sip. Listen for the knock on the front door. Yeah, we know, it's so easy for stress and strife to derail dinner and turn the whole occasion into a neighborhood revival of "Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf?"


But just remember, your movie is "The Thin Man." You're William Powell. You're Myrna Loy.


Do not waver from this. No matter what happens - biscuits are hurled across the table, shots are fired, Uncle Lou starts ranting about Occupy Wall Street - just keep quipping and sipping as though you've been beamed in from an elegantly chaotic cocktail party in 1934.


Later, your therapist will refer to this as a cinematic form of "denial," but so what? It works. You'll have fun. And to borrow from the Gershwins, they can't take that away from you.

Turkey

Can you suggest recipes for gluten-free gravy and desserts?

My mother-in-law has a gluten allergy, my family is kosher. What can everyone can enjoy besides a fruit salad?

November 16, 2012

How about a recipe for gluten-free gravy? — Tracy Mayor, Boston


Gluten is a protein found in most grains, cereals and breads, as well as many soups, sauces, beverages, spices and marinades, so it can be a challenge to cook without it. Silvana Nardone, creator of "Easy Eats," an online magazine devoted to gluten-free cooking, suggests a gluten-free, flourless Mustard Pan Gravy. Even if you don't need to eat gluten-free, you may want to try it. "It's easier to make than regular gravy since there's no need to fuss with a roux,'' says Ms. Nardone.


Making a gluten-free dessert that is also kosher, meaning it doesn't contain either gluten or dairy, is slightly more challenging. One solution is to find a favorite vegan dessert (vegan recipes don't contain dairy or animal products), and then figure out how to remove the gluten. And even though many vegan recipes already use dairy-free soy milk or almond milk, it's also important to look for "Kosher pareve" on the label, which certifies that it wasn't packed in the same facility as anything dairy.


Ms. Nardone, whose "Cooking for Isaiah" contains gluten-free dishes she created for her son, suggests a kosher, gluten-free Pumpkin Pie or her Upside-Down Apple-Granola Crunch. Although most recipes on Easy Eats require a subscription, Ms. Nardone has provided free links to her gluten-free gravy and both desserts.


We also have a few suggested vegan recipes for you from Well's Vegetarian Thanksgiving that can be tweaked to make them gluten-free. Try vegan chef Chloe Coscarelli's Pumpkin Tiramisu or Chocolate Pumpkin Bread Pudding (both contain coconut milk.) Just substitute gluten-free bread in the bread pudding recipe, and top with a dairy-free whipped topping or a kosher, dairy-free ice cream. (You can find these at most large grocery stores or an organic or kosher foods store). I've made the bread pudding several times with regular bread, and it's absolutely delicious. My Science Times colleague Karen Barrow recently made Old-Fashioned Chocolate Pudding Pie from the "Vegan Pie in the Sky" cookbook. (She substituted a kosher pareve soy milk and said it turned out great.) Substitute gluten-free graham crackers for the crust, or make the "Easy Eats" gluten-free crust (scroll down page). Or you can buy a gluten-free crust.

Sides

Can you suggest a vegetarian main course that is also dairy- and gluten-free?

I'm hosting my entire family for the first time this year and between the lot of them we've got gluten-intolerance, lactose-intolerance, and vegetarianism. I'm a great cook and generally culinarily creative, but I can't come up with main course that will satisfy everyone. Any thoughts?

November 22, 2012

You need a gluten-free vegan main course to satisfy everybody's dietary requirements, but it's not always easy. Many gluten-free dishes have dairy or meat. And many dairy-free dishes have gluten.


The Curried Lentil Squash and Apple Stew and Harvest Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms I mentioned here are vegan and gluten-free (though you'll need to substitute gluten-free breadcrumbs in the mushrooms). Or you could substitute wild rice for the couscous in the Seven-Vegetable Couscous recipe to make it gluten-free. Everyday Happy Herbivore's Cajun Cornbread Casserole fits the bill; just make sure your Cajun seasoning and your non-dairy milk substitute don't contain gluten. If your vegetarian guest eats food that contains eggs, you could try Sylvana Nardone's Gluten-Free Pumpkin Dumplings With Radicchio, but do a test batch to make sure you like the consistency. You may also want to take a look at some of your favorite vegan dishes and see if they can easily be made gluten-free by substituting gluten-free flour or using a gluten-free grain like quinoa or cornmeal. Be sure to check out Martha Rose Shulman's recent series on gluten-free holiday stuffings.

November 16, 2012

Many vegan diners don't require a main course and are happy to fill their plates with all the delicious vegetable side dishes found on a Thanksgiving table. However, many traditional holiday casseroles and mashed vegetable dishes contain milk, eggs, butter and cream, so they aren't suitable for vegan diners, who eat no animal products.


If you want to serve a protein-rich vegan dish that works as a traditional main course, consider a hearty Curried Lentil, Squash and Apple Stew, or Harvest Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms, filled with savory lentil cashew stuffing and topped off with a sliver of sweet tomato and fresh thyme leaves. Both are from a vegan chef, Chloe Coscarelli. You might also want to try Ms. Coscarelli's Roasted Apple, Butternut Squash and Carmelized Onion Pizza, but make sure you prepare enough servings for the non-vegans at the table. A garlic white bean puree replaces traditional tomato sauce and it's delicious.


Nava Atlas, author of "Vegan Holiday Kitchen," suggests a 7-Vegetable Couscous. You should also try her Coconut Butternut Squash Soup, made with coconut milk instead of dairy. Melissa Clark recently served a Harvest Tart With Pumpkin, Roasted Red Peppers and Olives.


If you want to go with a meat substitute, you could try Candle 79's Seitan Piccata, a Seitan Roulade or a Country "Meatloaf" with gravy. Visit Well's interactive recipe collection to see more vegetarian Thanksgiving recipes.

November 21, 2012

Highly unlikely. But, both the Agriculture Department and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend cooking stuffing separately from the turkey. The concern is that cold or frozen stuffing, sometimes sold already stuffed into packaged birds, won't reach a high enough temperature to be eaten safely.

But according to Mary Clingman, a turkey expert and director of the Butterball Turkey Talk-Line, so long as the stuffing is hot when it goes into the turkey, and then removed within two hours after cooking, the company’s microbiologists stand by stuffing inside the cavity. In fact, because hot stuffing raises the temperature of the bird and speeds the cooking, it can produce a slightly juicier turkey.

Additionally, she said, stuffing the bird provides a reliable and convenient spot to test for overall doneness. “Right in the center of the bird, when the stuffing hits 165 degrees, that turkey is done,” she said. (Apparently, many callers are mystified when directed to locations like “the thickest part of the thigh.”)Read More

Mrs. Clingman herself is a lifelong stuffer, citing the incomparable flavor of stuffing bathed in the juice and fat of a roasting turkey. (But Butterball’s research shows that the anti-stuffing message is getting through: the percentage of cooks who stuff has dropped steeply, from more than 60 percent in 1990 to less than 40 percent today.)

In Mrs. Clingman’s house, all the ingredients are cut up the night before (benefit: this is a good way to dry out the bread that will be used) and cooked first thing Thanksgiving morning. Any stuffing that doesn’t fit is baked in a casserole; then she mixes both stuffings together before dinner is served. “It helps keep the fighting down,” she said.

Video All Thanksgiving Videos »

Candied Sweet Potatoes

Melissa Clark shows how to make candied sweet potatoes using maple syrup. View recipe »

Interactive
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Illustration by SARAH WILLIAMSON

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