Lesage: the heart at work, for 100 years

Have you ever wondered who creates the intricate embroidery that adorns haute couture pieces? Let me tell you about an extraordinary exhibition you need to visit at Le 19M (if you are quick), celebrating the centenary of Maison Lesage. This legendary embroidery house has been the silent force behind fashion's most spectacular creations.

When Jean-François Lesage, grandson of the founders, speaks about embroidery, he describes it as "freedom, like painting or writing," in contrast to the mechanical repetition of fabric-making. This philosophy has guided the house since 1924 when Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage acquired Maison Michonnet, transforming traditional craftsmanship into modern artistic expression.

The house's legacy is breathtaking: from Schiaparelli's iconic gold and silver embroidered Phoebus cape to Saint Laurent's Matisse-inspired sunflowers, and more recently, Jacquemus's dramatic stage costumes. But what truly amazed me was discovering their heritage vault containing 75,000 creations, a treasure trove that continues to inspire both emerging designers and established fashion houses. And, just like Fort Knox, don't even think about getting in! (actually, just joking: they are welcoming creatives to discover and use their archives, which is absolutely fantastic).

The exhibition offers an unprecedented glimpse into their world, including a fascinating 3D video journey by Romain Cieutat (pictured) that reveals the complexity of transforming a sketch into a finished garment. Each piece requires exceptional skill, particularly with the challenging Lunéville hook technique, which demands years of training to master.

What's particularly touching is how Lesage extends beyond fashion into interior design through their Vastrakala atelier in India, creating monumental pieces like tapestries for the Indian Presidential Palace - one piece alone required 26,000 hours of work! The house also produces Chanel's iconic tweeds, developing 1,500 creative proposals annually under the artistic direction of the charismatic Hubert Barrère.

As Baudelaire said, "Though we work with heart and soul, art is long and time is short." This exhibition at Le 19M is a must-see celebration of craftsmanship, innovation, and the generous spirit of a house that has shaped fashion for a century while constantly looking toward the future.