Is There Still Space for the Middle?

A reflection on Breitling’s latest moves and what they might mean for mid-priced jewelry brands

Breitling, the Swiss watch brand known for its aviation-inspired designs and bold campaigns, recently made a move that stood out, not because it was loud or groundbreaking but because it was measured and intentional.

In a world where many luxury brands have steadily increased their prices, stretching their image upward in pursuit of “exclusivity,” Breitling chose another path: one that circles back to the middle.

They’ve done two things worth pausing for:

• Launched a new line of mechanical watches (Top Time B31) fronted by actor Austin Butler, with in-house movements, starting at $5,600.
• Relaunched the heritage brand Gallet, with watches priced between $3,000 and $5,000, powered by third-party movements.

Both moves position Breitling firmly in what many have called “the forgotten middle.”

Not a Nostalgic Gesture. A Strategic One.

CEO Georges Kern isn’t betting on nostalgia alone. He’s betting on structure, substance, and storytelling. The watches are beautifully made. They speak of heritage, but with modern tech. They are priced fairly — not to signal status but to create value.

This stands in contrast to what we often see in both watches and jewelry: ✔️ The constant push upwards in price to justify luxury. ✔️ The fear of seeming “less than” if prices aren’t rising. ✔️ The assumption that younger customers only want cool, new, disruptive things.

Kern disagrees. And I must say, I find his reasoning refreshing.

His view is that style transcends demographics. And that customers—regardless of age—want clarity, craftsmanship, and a sense that what they buy has real value behind it.

The Middle Isn’t Broken. It’s Been Left Behind.

The watch industry has, in recent years, polarized. On one end: the ultra-luxury brands with limited production and sky-high prices. On the other end are successful, affordable quartz watches that spark nostalgia and playfulness.

In between? Not much. Many brands simply walked away from this middle zone, afraid that it would cheapen their image or wouldn't survive the dominance of smartphones and digital culture.

Breitling’s answer: don’t abandon the middle — rebuild it, but with intention.

What stood out to me in the interview was this quote:

“You cannot take the same product and just increase prices, which many brands have done in luxury, because after a while the consumers say ‘no.’”

That “no” is something many of us working in jewelry may have already heard—or felt.

What Can We Take from This?

As someone who works closely with jewelry professionals across the industry, I don’t believe in copying strategies from watch brands or big names. But I do believe in reflection. And Breitling’s recent choices invite exactly that.

So here are a few thoughts to consider:

• Is there room again for well-made, well-told, mid-priced jewelry?
• As an industry, have we become too reliant on raising prices to justify luxury rather than creating real value?
• Could we build a new connection with our customers—not by promising status, but by telling honest, beautiful stories that match the object?
• Are we overlooking customers who love jewelry deeply but feel left behind by the price jumps?

We’re all looking for clarity in a crowded, noisy space. Perhaps the future isn’t just in the top end or viral moments but in the quiet rebuilding of a middle segment with intention, care, and storytelling.

I’ll leave you with this thought: Sometimes, the most courageous thing a brand can do is not aim higher but go deeper.

— Esther

Source for the Breitling information: Business of Fashion. Article written by Robin Swithinbank

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