Donatella's Departure, Demna's New House, PFW Trends, Tariffs and More

This week, creative director musical chairs continued with the news that Donatella Versace will succeeded by Dario Vitale and that Demna is leaving Balenciaga for Gucci. Here, we have a look at these changes and why investors and analysts are not convinced Demna is the right fit. Plus, a look at the trends and buyers' favorites at Paris Fashion Week and why Trump's tariffs could be a "potentially crushing burden" on the industry.

Investors, Analysts Look Dimly on Demna at Gucci

Luxury analysts had been plumping for Gucci to name a high-profile creative director to reverse its declining business, but they seem lukewarm on the choice of Demna, who made Balenciaga a byword for underground, streetwise cool and hype collaborations.

“The choice of Demna came as a surprise to us considering his bold and sometimes controversial aesthetic. We think that at this stage, the announcement brings as much risks as opportunities,” Carole Madjo, analyst at Barclays, wrote in a research note Friday.

Investors seem to agree, sending shares in Kering plunging 11.2 percent in early trading on the Paris bourse.

Read on here for the full story.

Versace’s New Era: Dario Vitale Takes Reins as Donatella Steps Down

Fashion’s current spinning wheel on Thursday caught up Donatella Versace, who was named chief brand ambassador of the fashion house she has helped grow on her own for the past 28 years, following the death of her beloved brother Gianni.

On Thursday, Versace said the designer would be succeeded by Dario Vitale, named chief creative officer, effective April 1.

As first reported by WWD in December, sources said the contract of Donatella Versace, who held the role of chief creative officer of the Italian brand, was up in February. In her new role, she will dedicate herself to the support of Versace’s philanthropic and charitable endeavours.

Read on here for the full story.

Corp Core and Boom Boom: Buyers Praise the Return of Maximalism

The chess game of designer moves paid off for the major houses, with the season of debuts of new creative directors seen as a resounding success.

Buyers report their budgets are up as they snap up new takes on ‘80s office dressing, with big shoulders and opulent outerwear.

Read on here for the full story.

Industry Laments ‘Potentially Crushing Burden’ of Trump’s Tariffs

Groups representing the interests of apparel, footwear, textiles and retail are grappling with the long- and short-term implications of new duties on Mexico, Canada and China.

The unprecedented trade actions against the nation’s North American neighbors represent a significant backslide when it comes to U.S. trade policy, according to American Apparel and Footwear Association president and chief executive officer Steve Lamar.

“By targeting our [U.S.-Mexico–Canada Agreement] partnership, these tariff actions place a huge stumbling block in front of our nearshoring efforts,” he told WWD’s sister publication Sourcing Journal. “Not only does this introduce high tariff costs, making the economic model unsustainable, but it undermines the investment value and certainty of free trade agreement programs, casting doubt as to whether the U.S. is a responsible partner.”

Read on here for the full story.

Check out more of this week's top stories:

• The 90-day Shuffle: Understanding Saks Global’s Longer Payment Terms
• Bold Beauty Parades Down Paris Catwalks for the Fall 2025 Season
• Bernard Arnault Wants to Keep Running LVMH Until 85
• Fall 2025 Jewelry Highlights From Paris Fashion Week