A few thoughts about PFW.
Ruohan
The designer’s minimal aesthetic has gained popularity in China, with over 90 stockists worldwide, largely due to its reasonable price point. However, it’s difficult to understand the Federation’s decision to invite the brand to participate in Paris Fashion Week. The brand feels too contemporary: the fabrics look inexpensive, and there are many concerns about the draping and controlling the volume. With the Chinese market facing challenges—low consumer confidence, high youth unemployment, and fears of economic deflation—local brands (currently based in Shanghai) have a clear advantage. While Ruohan has some good ideas, it needs significant help with execution to present itself on the Paris stage truly. In my opinion, it belongs to Tranoi.
Alain Paul
Incredibly beautiful. Paris Fashion Week newcomer ALAINPAUL debuted just a year ago. The former ballet dancer (trained at the Marseille Ballet School) and former designer at Louis Vuitton and Vetements founded the ALAINPAUL brand in 2023 with his husband. Conceptually, Alain describes his style as a choreography of clothes around the body.
The brand is already sold at The Broken Arm, marking a successful start with a Paris Fashion Week calendar spot.
The SS25 collection, while still somewhat raw, showcases impressive elements: great tailoring (looks 5, 6, and 10), remarkable layering (looks 31 and 33, echoing the transparent skirts over solid outfits seen at Fendi), and excellent work with jersey. Some looks struggle with proportions, but the brand is still young.
Mame Kurogouchi
Mame is one of the most successful women’s brands in Japan. The brand is highly recognizable: from film stars at PR events to everyday people on the streets, you can easily identify Mame.
However, the aesthetic is quite specific, making it difficult for the brand to expand outside of Asia. While Mame is undoubtedly talented, the designs can often be too ornate, and the color choices are challenging for Western consumers. The knitwear, in my opinion, could be simpler, and the pants often present a challenge.
That said, this particular collection seems better suited for a global audience. The jumpsuits are feminine, easy to fit, and come in great colors. The soft pleating on the dresses is elegant, and the transparent dresses layered over solid pieces are wearable.
#WWD #BOF #PFW
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