Post 1
A GSPIAn Abroad: Argentina
As my time here in Argentina comes to an end, I thought I would sit down and finally put pen to paper and capture some of my experiences of living and working in Buenos Aires. Like the many interns before me who have packed their lives into a suitcase and traveled halfway across the globe, this was an experience like no other for me. In the following trilogy of posts, I hope to accomplish a few things. First, I’ll try and give you an idea of what exactly makes Argentina the way it is, which is without a doubt easier said than done. Second, you’ll get a look at what has kept me busy as the Junior Political Analyst at Canada’s embassy to Argentina and Paraguay. Finally, I’ll take a final look back at my four months in Argentina, and try and think about what it might all mean moving forward.
Part I – The Country
There is only really one word that came to mind when thought about the one word that can best describe Argentina to someone who has never experienced it firsthand: complicated. As soon as I stepped off the plane, I knew that things were going to be interesting when the customs agent wasn’t able to find the information she needed about Argentina’s embassy in Ottawa, even though I myself had been there just a few weeks earlier. However, following my assertion that Argentina does in fact have diplomatic representation in Canada’s capital, my visa was recognized as legitimate, and I had officially arrived.
The first thing that strikes you about the city of Buenos Aires is the size. It’s a city that just sprawls out in every direction, rightfully earning its place among South America’s largest urban areas. However, it is undoubtedly a beautiful city, and certainly deserves its reputation as the ‘Paris of South America’. But even though it may look beautiful on the surface, with towering classical buildings lining the wide, tree covered avenues, as city home to nearly thirteen million, Buenos Aires is dominated by a uniquely Argentine brand of organized chaos. To get to work on time in the early morning rush hour, you’ll need to find a spot in the neatly organized lines that wrap around almost every block, all while waiting for a bus that works its way through the city at its own pace, without any trace of a set schedule. Posters advertising anything from politicians running for re-election, the latest summer blockbuster, and even the weekly specials at nearby supermarkets are plastered over every available surface, while cafes, bookstores, and flower stalls all spill out onto the streets, inviting passersby to sit and watch the chaos fly past.
Even if life in Argentina is complicated, the people who face it every single day do so with unrivaled passion. Argentines are without a doubt passionate about a number of important things. First of all, football is not simply a sport in Argentina, it’s a religion. Every morning, you’ll find footballers on the front page of every newspaper, and every night millions are glued to their TVs. Within my first few weeks, the two biggest clubs in Argentina, La Boca and River Plate, who both call Buenos Aires home, faced each other, with the match ending early following incident involving fans, pepper spray, and visiting team. Needless to say, fans were devastated, and the story continued to make headlines for days.
It should come as no surprise that besides Pope Francis, Diego Maradona is perhaps the most famous living Argentine, and if you were to ask anyone on the streets of Buenos Aires, the greatest player to ever have played the beautiful game, with Lionel Messi not far behind. Ranking a close third would be Argentina’s iconic president, Christina Fernandez de Kirchner, who has led her country through a complicated time in Argentine history, and has yet again reached another major turning point. With 2015 as an election year, the intricacies of Argentina’s political and economic situation are on full display, and with President Kirchner ineligible for re-election, the passionate complexity of Argentine politics have already engulfed the nation months before the first ballots are set to be cast.
Finally, one thing that many people often forget, myself included, is just how large Argentina is. Although not much compares to the vast stretches of mountains, prairies and forests that fall between Canada’s coasts, I can say that Argentina certainly hosts more than its fair share of natural wonders. Luckily, I was able to escape the city on a few occasions and see some of the most famous features firsthand. A few weeks after my arrival, I climbed on board a bus and drove fifteen hours through the night. By morning, I had hit the high Andes at their peak, Mount Aconcagua, the highest point in the Americas.
A few months later, I was on the move again, this time further south. After an eleven-hour flight, you might think it’s safe to assume there isn’t much further south you can go. But, after three more hours in the air, I was in El Calafate, in the heart of Patagonia, and home to Glacier National Park. Finally, after another hour in the air, Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, sitting between the snow-capped peaks of Tierra del Fuego and the frigid waters of the Beagle Channel.
And there you have it. A brief introduction to Argentina, the country that many love, but few truly understand. But of course, spending time enjoying the city and the country was only half of my Argentine experience, and the real work started as soon as I set foot in the embassy.