waQas Yousafzai, Syria
March 16, 2011 | esapi-gspiawaQas Youafzai : Damascus, Syria - March 15th 2011
Greetings from Damascus!
To me, the whole experience of living in this region is more than the typical sights of 9 year old kids driving motor bikes on crowded highways against traffic flow and people risking their lives every day by running across busy highways and getting on dodgy busses being driven at reckless speeds by reckless drivers. The reason I picked the Middle East, and in my mind, the right choice, was evident when I went to beautiful Beirut for a quick five day trip this past week and got to experience an incredible event – a political rally with a passion.
Political rallies and protests are rather common in the region currently, however – across the Atlantic in Canada, low voter turn out at all levels of government is a serious concern. So much so there is an entire body of literature looking at low voter turn out and various methods to be employed to eliminate voter apathy. Such research is absolutely unnecessary in this region as demonstrated by the swaths of people that show up to public rallies and protests here. Being in Lebanon on Sunday, March 13, for the annual March 14th alliance rally, named after the Cedar Revolution, was an intense experience. The alliance is a coalition of political parties and independents in Lebanon that call for sovereignty over all Lebanese territories, led by MP Saad Hariri, younger son of Rafik Hariri, who was assassinated years ago. Despite tanks, armed police and security forces surrounding Beirut, the tension in the air could be felt as the rally continued in full swing. The flags of Lebanon, the Kataeb (Phalange), Future Movement and the Lebanese Forces were waved and painted on people’s faces, and worn as scarves, capes and headdresses. Days before the rally itself, the voices of prominent politicians were broadcasted on TV, radio, and in downtowns of Lebanese cities. Chanting and non-stop political chatter could be heard from businesses, homes and cars throughout Beirut adding to the significance of the rally. Due to the entire downtown core of Beirut being in lock down, it was impossible to drive out of Beirut without driving through thousands of supporters. Supporters that believe strongly in a sovereign Lebanon (hence against the presence of Syrian forces in Lebanon up until full withdrawal in 2008). This is where it got very interesting. I, a Jordanian national and a UK national heading to Damascus in a Syrian plated car have no choice but to head through the rally to get to the main highway connecting Beirut to Damascus - dotted with police check points. The supporters of the alliance, noticing the Syrian plates and realizing the destination of the car (licence plates of vehicles going between borders and offering transportation between Jordan, Syria, Lebanon and Turkey are different from personal, diplomatic and commercial licence plates) started harassing the driver and shouting anti-Syria and anti-Bashar chants. Simultaneously rally goers started to bang on the hood, windows and trunk of the car causing the driver distress and forcing him to manoeuvre quickly through the crowd so not to stay in the same location for too long before the situation got out of hand (we almost completely ran over two people to get out of this situation). In direct contrast to this experience, just hours ago - speaking to the army to get permission to walk through the downtown streets that were closed off to get to the taxi stop – we were asked where we were trying to go. After mentioning Damascus as our final destination and asking for permission to take photographs of the rally, we were encouraged by the M-16 armed army personnel to ‘maximize’ the photos. After further elaboration through hand gestures, we realized he wanted us to “tell peoples” and maximize exposure of the rally outside of Lebanon. Needless to say, in this part of the world, everyone has a political opinion and everyone tries to have their voice heard. Sadly, such can not be said for Canada, where despite having a well educated population, clear channels to express political wishes and a solid Charter of Rights and Freedoms, the Canadian public continues to be disinterested and unaware.
Until next time, Massalama
waQas Yousafzai | GSPIA