This post was originally published on Defender Network

By ReShonda Tate

Braiding has long been more than just a hairstyle in the Black community—it is a tradition, a statement of identity and a deeply personal form of self-expression. 

These styles, from intricate cornrows to waist-length box braids, carry history and cultural significance, passed down through generations. But while braids offer beauty, convenience and protection, they can also bring pain, tension and, in some cases, irreversible hair loss.

For many Black women, braiding is a go-to protective style, offering a break from daily styling and potential heat damage. Yet, experts warn that frequent braiding, especially when done too tightly, can lead to traction alopecia—a form of hair loss caused by prolonged tension on the scalp.

“We see this issue all the time in Black women,” said Dr. Oyetewa Oyerinde, a dermatologist and hair loss specialist at Baylor College of Medicine. “Tight braids, when worn repeatedly, can weaken hair follicles, leading to thinning edges, bald spots and even permanent hair loss if not addressed early.”

The beauty and risks of braiding

Braids are beloved for their low maintenance and versatility, allowing women to experiment with styles without the daily manipulation that often leads to breakage. However, the same style meant to protect can also cause harm when applied improperly or worn for too long.

Natasha Brooks, a Houston-based braider specializing in protective styles, acknowledges the balance between beauty and scalp health.

“A good braider should never put your hair at risk for the sake of a longer-lasting style.”

Natasha Brooks

“Some clients want their braids tight because they think it lasts longer,” Brooks said. “But tight doesn’t mean better—it just means more tension on your scalp. A good braider should never put your hair at risk for the sake of a longer-lasting style.”

That tension can have serious consequences. Traction alopecia is one of the most common forms of hair loss among Black women, and it’s often caused by repeated pulling on the hair. Symptoms include thinning edges, small bumps along the hairline and tenderness in the scalp—all signs that braids may be too tight.

Understanding traction alopecia and scalp health

Traction alopecia is a progressive condition that worsens if the stress on the hair follicles continues. Over time, excessive pulling can damage the follicles so that they no longer produce hair.

“If someone notices consistent pain, small bumps, or thinning, that’s a sign they need to loosen up their style or take a break,” said Dr. Oyerinde. “The longer the pulling continues, the higher the risk of permanent damage.”

Beyond hair loss, tight braids can cause other issues, including:

  • Follicle damage, making hair more prone to breakage.
  • Headaches and migraines from constant tension.
  • Scalp infections from bacteria entering small sores caused by too-tight braiding.

How to maintain healthy hair while braiding

Despite the risks, braids can still be a healthy styling option if done correctly. Experts recommend several strategies to minimize tension and maintain a healthy scalp:

Choose larger, looser braids – Smaller, tighter braids put more stress on the hair follicles. Opt for knotless braids, which distribute weight more evenly.

Use the right oils and treatments – Lightweight oils like jojoba, peppermint and tea tree oil help keep the scalp hydrated and reduce inflammation.

Take breaks between styles – Avoid keeping braids in for longer than 6-8 weeks and give the scalp at least two weeks to recover before reinstalling.

Communicate with your braider – A professional should listen to concerns and avoid excessive pulling. “If you feel pain while getting braids, speak up,” Logan advised. “Braiding should not be painful.”

When braiding is no longer an option

For some women, years of tension and hair loss mean braiding is no longer an option. Alicia Carter, 37, shared her experience with traction alopecia after years of wearing tight micro braids.

“I noticed my edges thinning, but I ignored it because I loved my braids,” Carter said. “One day, I took them out and saw bald patches. That’s when I knew something was wrong.”

After being diagnosed with traction alopecia, Carter had to completely change her hair care routine. “I started wearing wigs and doing scalp massages with oils to try to regrow my hair,” she said. “It’s been a journey, but I’ve learned to embrace new styles that don’t damage my scalp.”

Experts stress that education is key. “The beauty industry doesn’t always warn women about the risks of constant tension,” Carter said. “We need to talk about this more so women don’t wait until it’s too late.”

When done correctly, braiding is an art form, a tradition and a protective style. However, awareness is critical. 

Recognize the signs – If you feel pain, experience bumps, or notice thinning edges, your braids may be too tight.
Take breaks – Allow the scalp time to rest between braided styles.
Prioritize scalp care – Use oils, gentle shampoos and regular scalp massages to maintain health.
Explore alternatives – If traction alopecia sets in, consider styles that minimize tension, like twist-outs, loose wigs, or short natural cuts.

Braids should empower—not harm. By prioritizing scalp health, Black women can continue embracing the beauty of braiding without the pain.

BY THE NUMBERS

Black Hair Industry Statistics 

1. Black Americans spend 35% of their money on hair products on styling products.

2. South Korean businesses hold a majority of the ethnic hair market, 60-80%, while Black-owned ethnic hair products only make up 3%.

3. Black Americans yearly spend 18% of their income on ethnic hair beauty products.

4. Black women experience more hair anxiety than other women. 

5. More than half of Black women have been unsuccessful in finding hair products suitable for their hair. 

6. Black women spend more money on products for their hair than white women.

7. 43% of Black consumers spending in the US personal care market comprises black women. 

8. 38% of Black hair consumers express a desire to try new styles.

9. Black men who regularly change their hairstyle use the highest amount of black hair products. 

10. One in four Black women has difficulty finding hair products, and more than half have been unable to find them.